South Georgia starts to come to life just before the arrival of the first expedition cruise ships at the start of November. The beaches are already dotted with rapidly growing elephant pups, and you might see the last of the massive beachmaster males fighting it out over the few females yet to breed. Throughout the month, male fur seals start to come on shore and claim their beachfront territories.
Early breeding king penguins return to shore to mate, while gentoo, macaroni and chinstrap penguins are already starting to lay their eggs. Seabirds are also beginning to nest, including light-mantled albatrosses on the tussocky cliffs and brown skuas camouflaged on the ground near penguin colonies.