Wildlife in Antarctica
Antarctica’s fin whales: are their numbers finally in recovery?
In the 2023/23 Antarctic season, our Guidebook Editor, Paul, was lucky enough to visit Elephant Island, forever famous as the location where the stranded men of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance expedition sheltered. The seas here were rich hunting grounds for the whaling ships that followed in the decades after and the ocean fell silent as a result.
Surveys show a slow but real recovery in the numbers of fin whales in these waters. In this article, Paul speaks to Dr Helena Herr – the lead scientist on the first major research project to monitor fin whale numbers – to discover more.

Preserving Antarctica
Antarctica is one of the most beautiful, unique and perfectly preserved regions on the planet. Its frozen landscapes are home to many amazing species, each uniquely adapted to its extraordinary climate.
Largely untouched and undisturbed, special guidelines exist to ensure it continues to be a constant source of wonder and inspiration.
The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) offer advice on how to have the safest and best experience possible, while keeping Antarctica pristine, in their short video.

Zodiac cruises & landings
Exploring off-ship in Antarctica is split into two types of activity. Zodiac cruising and landings. In all instances, during your time in Antarctica, you will need to abide by the IAATO guidelines, which include keeping a safe distance from wildlife (minimum 5 metres) and avoiding any activity which may cause an animal to alter its natural behaviour.
The zodiac ribs will be used to get you ashore for landings, after which you will explore on foot. Generally, these are wet landings, where the rib will push up onto the beach and you will then step out into the water and up onto the shore - hence the need to wear your waterproof boots and trousers/pants. On arrival, you will be briefed by the expedition team as to the nature of the specific landing. They will point out the route, which will be marked by flags, any particular points of interest and any hazards to avoid. Landings may include walks up to a ridge point for a spectacular view, or you may be focussing on a penguin rookery.

Top tips for zodiac cruising

- Wrap up warm! Put on extra layers as the lack of physical movement means that your body cools down much faster.
- Keep your eyes peeled – the guide will always be looking for wildlife, but if you spot something interesting, please alert them.
- You can ask questions, whether it be about an iceberg, a seal you’ve spotted or a bird flying overhead. If your guide isn’t a specialist in that particular area, they will be able to radio the rest of the expedition team for more information.
- Look at the ice around you – from the water level, you can really appreciate the myriad shapes and textures, not to mention the fifty shades of blue!
- Stay quiet – especially if you are approaching seals hauled out on ice floes as they will be resting and recovering their energy. It is also wonderful to experience the serenity of Antarctica, away from the ship’s engines and surrounded by crackling ice.

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Zodiacs in Antarctica
Top tips for landings

Hikers trek along the coast, Antarctic Peninsula
- Bring a backpack and dress in layers! Once you start walking you can get surprisingly hot. It's helpful to be able to strip off a layer and pop it in your backpack. This is also a useful place to store spare batteries, memory cards and other equipment.
- If visiting a penguin rookery, spend some time down by the water’s edge. The temptation is to stay by the colony, but it is fascinating watching them travel in and out of the water.
- Make sure to put the camera down every now and again so you don’t spend the whole time looking through a lens! Find a quiet spot and soak up the spectacular 360-degree vistas.
- If a penguin approaches you, move slowly and quietly out of its path, to maintain the 5-metre distance as per IAATO regulations for interactions with Antarctic birds.
- Watch out for the 'pink snow'!
Zodiac cruises do not involve landing at all, instead, you will head out for a water-based adventure that could last 1-2 hours. This is one of Swoop’s favourite ways to explore Antarctica as it is the best way to enjoy the spectacular icebergs and marine wildlife.
Please note that due to Covid-19, visits to scientific bases may not be possible, though both the bases and ships are keen to reestablish their links when it is safe to do so.
Ship cruising & time on deck
In addition to your time off the ship, you will also sometimes have 'ship cruising' scheduled in. This often signals a time where the ship is passing through somewhere particularly jaw-dropping (all of Antarctica’s scenery is spectacular), which is best viewed from the vantage of the ship’s decks. The Lemaire Channel would be a great example of this, as the ship squeezes through the narrow channel between two sheer rock faces.
The deck of the ship is often the best location from which to spot whales, and you may hear impromptu announcements on the tannoy inviting you outside to see whales “at 3 o’clock”. This is not a scheduled viewing time, but rather a description of the animals’ position relative to the ship at that exact moment – so this would be directly starboard (right off the ship).

Out on the deck of the Ortelius
What to expect on board during sailing days

Swoop says
We recommend you spend any spare time out on deck to make the most of Antarctica. Once aboard, familiarise yourself with the ship's layout including access to the decks, and always have your camera and warm layers to hand, so you can get outdoors quickly if there is a sighting announcement.