{"id":5719,"date":"2025-06-30T15:02:35","date_gmt":"2025-06-30T14:02:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.swoop-antarctica.com\/blog\/?p=5719"},"modified":"2025-12-02T08:59:58","modified_gmt":"2025-12-02T08:59:58","slug":"port-lockroy-penguin-post-office-ukaht","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.swoop-antarctica.com\/blog\/port-lockroy-penguin-post-office-ukaht\/","title":{"rendered":"What is it like to live at Antarctica\u2019s Penguin Post Office?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Port Lockroy is a historic British research base that sits on tiny Goudier island off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Better-known today as the Penguin Post Office, it is maintained by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT), and is a perennially popular place for Antarctic expedition cruise ships to visit when the weather and ship schedules allow.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Every year, a small team arrives in Port Lockroy to spend the season welcoming visitors to the island and sending their postcards home from one of the most remote post offices on the planet. But what is it like to actually live in such an extraordinary place? We chatted to Lisa Ford of the UKAHT to discover more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Can you describe Port Lockroy to us?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Port Lockroy is in a beautiful sheltered bay with glaciers all around and a backdrop of amazing mountains. Goudier Island is about the size of a football pitch. The whole island is rocky, but at the beginning of the season it\u2019s covered in snow, with just our huts and about 500 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Port Lockroy, Goudier Island on the Antarctic Peninsula (Image: UKAHT\/Jerome Viard)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is the history of the Penguin Post office?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Port Lockroy came into being in 1944 under Operation Tabarin, which was a secret World War II mission under Churchill. The British wanted a presence in the Antarctic to keep a lookout for ships. It was called Base A, and that operation carried on for two years before becoming a science station. Before that it was the site of a whaling station \u2013 you can see the whalers’ chains on the rocks and some of their old wooden boats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today Bransfield House, which was the original base, is now a museum and small gift shop. In the 1950s when the guys were there doing amazing science, they had to live in really basic conditions with a huge amount of resilience. Now Port Lockroy is cared for by UKAHT to conserve the historic sites and tourists can visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How did you get to work at Port Lockroy?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was always a bit addicted to the Antarctic. I spent 18 months at Signy Island in the South Orkneys many years ago, but life takes you away from that and other things become a priority. But my family is grown up now, my husband went back to work for the British Antarctic Survey, and I thought \u2018hang on a minute, I\u2019m going too.\u2019 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Lisa Ford at Port Lockroy (Image: UKAHT\/Bridie Martin West)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I’d always watched what UKAHT were doing so I applied but didn\u2019t get anywhere, so I applied again and again. Through sheer persistence I got to go down for two and a half months. There\u2019s a lot of competition: last season there were over 600 applicants for the four or five jobs there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How many people are at Port Lockroy, and what are the living\/sleeping\/eating arrangements like?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We live in what’s called the Nissen Hut, on the site of an old storage site. UKAHT built it and it\u2019s actually quite comfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s open-plan living to an extent, with a kitchen and lounge area with a gas fire. It\u2019s quite compact for six people (or sometimes seven), but we’re all as respectful as you can be of each other’s space. Then there\u2019s the bunk room with bunk beds for six people\u2014we’re all in the same room\u2014then an area for washing and the toilet, plus somewhere to take on and off all your outdoor clothes. You\u2019re trying to keep everything as pristine as possible in an environment where you are living with Gentoo penguins who like to poo a lot. We find that we have to be really careful with our boots and things because otherwise it can get quite smelly! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The old larder at Bransfield House at Port Lockroy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re a small community but everyone knows that they’re in a really special place and have to adapt and be tolerant of one another because inevitably in that small space with a small number of people you are going to have your moments. But if you\u2019re ever having a moment, all you have to do is walk outside and think \u2018hang on a minute.\u2019 and look at the scenery. It\u2019s good medicine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What does a day at Port Lockroy look like?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s a lot of planning involved with ship visits and the base leader will talk to the ship\u2019s Expedition Leader so that we can get everything ready in advance. Someone will usually go onto the ship to talk to the passengers about what to expect when they come on the island as well as the important work the charity does. There\u2019s often some time on board to have a shower as well \u2013 it’s quite a prized thing. The ships are very generous in letting us wash, but it’s probably in everyone’s interest that we do!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The UKAHT team at work in Port Lockroy (Image: UKAHT\/Mari\u0301a Pi\u0301a Harboure)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

First thing in the morning we’ll get the shop and museum ready for the passengers. At the beginning of the season we\u2019ll also make sure that snow steps on the island are safe for passengers to get up and down. Later in the season, it’s all about cleaning the rocks so that there isn’t lots of guano for people to tread in. We also set out the areas that the passengers will go to on the island, so they\u2019re keeping their distance from the penguins and not disturbing them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the passengers arrive they’ll visit the museum and the gift shop and maybe send some mail. Visits for us last two to three hours, although passengers tend to get around 20\u201330 minutes on shore each because we’re on a pretty small island. Then we say goodbye to the ship, grab a bite to eat and then get ready for an afternoon visit. At the end of the day, we regroup and make dinner, though sometimes we’re very fortunate that the cruise ships will invite us on board if they’re staying around the bay. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do you relax on a day when there aren\u2019t any ships?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There’s always a lot of catch-up \u2013 during the busy season we’re talking two ships a day. It gets a little quieter from February, but we also do things like live teaching sessions, which we did this year with the British Schools Exploratory Society. There’s always a lot of back room stuff to do \u2013 we spend a lot of time franking mail! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How does the post get from Port Lockroy to its destination?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the post office we have a lot of postcards, letters and parcels that we frank by hand on the kitchen table. Each season we\u2019ll post anything up to 80,000 postcards. People drop their postcard off or buy one here. They\u2019re always itching for it to arrive home, but it all depends on a ship coming by.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We bundle them up and put them on any ship that\u2019s going to the Falkland Islands. From there they get put on a Royal Air Force flight to Brize Norton in the UK, where they\u2019re fed into the international postal system. The quickest we’ve ever known a card to get back to the UK has been two weeks, which is actually I think really good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How are the gentoo penguins as neighbours?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019re very smelly and get progressively smellier as the months go on! Sometimes I think you lose your sense of smell \u2013 it\u2019s when you go on a ship and realise that actually people are smelling you because some of our clothes have absorbed some of the penguin smell. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Gentoo penguins under the Union Jack at Port Lockroy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But watching the penguins going up and down their highways from the shore to the colony is always wonderful \u2013 the meet and greet of two penguins and how they get past one another. I never tire of spending time outside and watching their sort of antics, particularly all the nest thieving that goes on with taking each other\u2019s pebbles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The penguins trumpet away, but we actually get more noise from the sheathbills. They like to go on the roof of the Nissen hut \u2013 they love tapping at the chimney and can be quite noisy at night. So there are all sorts of weird and wonderful noises!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What was the most unexpected thing for you about working at Port Lockroy?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most surprising thing was actually that it was quite comfortable in our Nissen hut and how warm it is inside once the summer gets going. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A sheathbill watches a cruise ship at Port Lockroy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I worked in the Antarctic back in the 90s and it was all pretty basic. Port Lockroy is small and some of the things are still simple like the toilet and no running water, and for many people that wouldn’t be anything that they would want to do. I actually quite like it. Someone said it’s a bit like glamping, but it\u2019s a lot better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What was your favourite thing about living for a whole season in Antarctica?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Clearly the penguins are quite amazing. I love the simplicity of life there. People talk a lot about digital detox<\/a>. We do have the internet for the day-to-day running of the site and  communications with ships and back home, but being able to remove yourself from the complexities of life elsewhere is probably my favorite thing. And then just being able to wander out in a free moment and just look at what’s around. It\u2019s Antarctica! On a good day you just can’t beat it, you really can’t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Gentoo penguins at Port Lockroy (Image: UKAHT\/Jerome Viard)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Finally, what\u2019s your favourite thing to share with visitors to Port Lockroy <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Passengers get really interested in the history of the place. I think it\u2019s really important that we try to raise funds for the charity so that we can keep the conservation work going so time capsules are kept for future generations. I think when people are on these cruises, they see the magnificence and enormity of Antarctica, but a big part of our role is really to get people to see that this was an amazing thing that these men (and they were all men) did back in the day with their science, and how little they had and what they endured. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

*<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Discover more about the work of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust on their website<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

*<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Port Lockroy is a historic British research base that sits on tiny Goudier island off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Better-known today as the Penguin Post Office, it is maintained by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT), and is a perennially popular place for Antarctic expedition cruise ships to visit when the weather and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":5722,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[69],"tags":[34,139,145],"class_list":["post-5719","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-epic-adventures","tag-penguins","tag-port-lockroy","tag-uk-antarctic-heritage-trust"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhat is it like to live at Antarctica\u2019s Penguin Post Office? - Swoop Antarctica Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Lisa Ford of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust tells us what it's like to live in the the Penguin Office at Port Lockroy on the Antarctic Peninsula.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.swoop-antarctica.com\/blog\/port-lockroy-penguin-post-office-ukaht\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"What is it like to live at Antarctica\u2019s Penguin Post Office? 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